I am a self-professed hotel connoisseur.  Even though I often stay with friends when I travel, given the chance, I will almost always go with the hotel option.  Especially when it leans towards the luxury end of the spectrum.  But after my two weeks in Morocco, I have to confess that I’m OK if I never stay in a hotel again. Now I have a new passion. I have fallen in love with Moroccan riads.

OK, yes. If you are staying in a riad,  technically it is a type of hotel, but their architecture and offerings are so unique, I have to give them their own category (my blog, my rules). They combine the best parts of staying in a home and staying in a hotel with the most gorgeous interiors to boot.

Disclaimer: This post contains some affiliate links. If you purchase products through those links I will get a small commission. There is no increase in the price for you and I will be able to put the money towards my next polo pony. And as always, all opinions are my own.

So What Exactly is a Riad?

In many parts of the world, we build homes and hotels with beautiful exteriors, surrounded by inviting gardens or yards.  Moroccan riads flip that formula by focusing the beauty on the inside of their structures. Almost all of the riads I visited hid behind plain exteriors with no sign of what awaited me on the other side of the door.

Before being renovated for use as accommodations, most riads were private homes or palaces for wealthy Moroccans. An emphasis on privacy meant that gardens and recreational areas were enclosed inside the homes. Today, many Moroccan riads are still privately held family homes, though luckily for us travelers, some have been converted into beautiful accommodations as well.

Riads typically have a small number of guest rooms meaning a level of personal attention that you normally do not receive at large hotels. The staff knows you by name and they take the time to learn your preferences to make your stay feel special.

I never felt like just a number. In fact, most of the rooms I stayed in didn’t even have numbers. They either had names or sometimes it was just “Nailah’s room at the top of the stairs”.

The rooms never feel like copy and paste versions of each other. Instead they all have special touches, interesting furniture, or even little imperfections that make you feel like this room has a story to tell.

But as much as I enjoyed the rooms, it was the central courtyard common to all riads that fascinated me. Whether working on a blog post, writing in my journal or planning out my day’s activities, whenever possible I did these tasks from the courtyard. Open to the sky and with a pool or fountain, those courtyards were the most beautiful areas of the riads.

From the gorgeous, colorful ceramic tiles that lined the walls and the floors to the beautifully rounded carvings of the doorways, to the heavy wooden doors that kept the street noise at bay, I felt like I had walked into a dreamscape each time I returned to my riad.

And if I every needed a change of scenery, most of the Moroccan riads also came with a rooftop terrace.  Sitting a few stories above street level with a glass of tea in hand and the call to prayer hanging in the air, I used that time to take in an aerial view of my new neighborhood.

I could happily spend the rest of my life checking out each of the thousands of riads in Morocco. But before I start that lifelong pursuit, let me share four of my favorite Moroccan riads that I stayed in as I hopped from Fez to Chefchaouen, to Marrakech to Essaouira.

The Adventure Begins

I began my Moroccan adventure in the city of Fez. I don’t know why, but boarding the plane in Barcelona to fly to Fez, I got a foreboding feeling.  Perhaps a sixth sense telling me my trip to Morocco would not be a good experience? That rarely happens to me when visiting a new country, so I worried I’d made a mistake booking this destination.

Thank goodness the moment I stepped off the plane in Fez, those feelings melted away.  I felt immediately dazzled and amazed and a bit overwhelmed as I left the airport.  Having prearranged an airport pickup with my first riad, before I knew it, I found myself in the back of a midsized van pulling out into the slightly dusty streets of greater Fez.

I am fairly sure that from the outside of the van, I looked like a little girl with her face pressed up against a toy store window: wide-eyed, slack jawed, unable to take in everything my eyes were seeing. And knowing I couldn’t blink for fear of missing anything.

And before long we were…rear ended.

Wait! That’s not how my magical ride was supposed to go into central Fez. But apparently that’s exactly how things go in Fez. That was the first of two fender benders I would experience in as many days in Fez. Luckily no one was hurt, but I did start to wonder if I was better off walking in this city.

After some aggressive gestures accompanied by yelling in Arabic, we were on our way again. Before long the van arrived at the edge of the Fez medina with all of its winding, narrow, indistinguishable streets.  So this must be the location of my first Moroccan riad?

Nope! This is where I choose a porter with a wheelbarrow who, for a price, will guide me to my riad.

[Word of advice here… Even if you’re an “I’ll do it myself” traveler like me, pay the porter to lead you to your riad. Otherwise I assure you, you will get lost.  All of the narrow alleyways look the same and if your riad actually has any signage at all, it will be written on a placard the size of a business card plastered on the side of a wall about 10 feet off the ground. Pay the very affordable porter and save yourself the trouble.] 

With the sun setting and having no idea how to get to my riad, I agreed and let the porter put my luggage into the wheelbarrow. I ran/walked behind him for about 10 minutes occasionally wondering if I was about to find out why I had those foreboding feelings about coming to Morocco. But before my imagination could run away from me, he stopped and gave me a triumphant smile. He dropped the wheelbarrow outside a thick wooden door built into a plain wall and announced our arrival.

The wheelbarrow porter was worth whatever I paid him because I never would have found the entrance on my own.  He knocked on the door and eventually someone came to help me inside. After climbing a narrow staircase, I had my first glimpse of a Moroccan riad. And it was just like the ones pictured in glossy travel magazines.

Riad Braya, Fez

I arrived at Riad Braya at night so when I entered the courtyard, everything glowed with dim lamps and lanterns. The tiled floors, walls and pool, shimmered in the dominant colors of blue and white.

The manager on duty escorted me to a white sofa and, as I eventually found was the tradition, offered me mint tea before starting any discussion of my reservation.  I happily accepted the offer and within moments, a tray with small clear glasses and an ornate silver pot arrived at the table. The tea was expertly dispensed from high above my small glass in order to aerate the drink and infuse the mint flavor. Not a drop spilled onto the table.

With my small glass of tea in hand, I began to take in my surroundings.  The beautiful blue and white tiles, huge framed mirrors that leaned against the walls and a small pool in the center of the courtyard that seemed more decorative than functional on that chilly November evening. Off to the side, I spied a small, inconspicuous bar.  At the back of the courtyard a recessed seating area served as both a reading room and a dining area during meal times.

After finishing my tea it was time to get around to actually checking in and going to my room.  Whereas the courtyard was serene with its blue accents, my guest room was a bit heavier with dark wood furniture, but all in all very comfortable and pleasant.

From peeking into some of the other rooms, it appears that some had gone through renovations while others, like mine, were more traditionally decorated.  But regardless of the upgrade situation, all rooms were spacious and had thick walls to minimize much of the outside noise.

With my first Moroccan riad experience a complete success, I wondered if the other riads I booked would measure up.  Luckily, I didn’t have to worry about that.

Riad Layalina, Fez

I left Fez for a few days to visit the blue city of Chefchaouen, but returned for one last night before I flew south to Marrakesh.  Though I am a creature of habit and would have been perfectly happy returning to Riad Braya, I decided to check out a different riad on the opposite side of the medina called Riad Layalina Fez.

This time I arrived in Fez in the afternoon with plenty of sunlight. Still it was challenging for the taxi driver to find the riad’s entrance off of a crumbling parking lot area.  When we found the door, I realized it was actually the back entrance. The main entrance was down another dark winding alley – par for the course in most Moroccan cities.

The tea reception was repeated as I took in the gorgeous courtyard. Multicolored tiles covered the floors around and inside the pool and a bubbling stone fountain.  Whether a pool or a fountain, you’ll always find an element of water inside Moroccan riad courtyards.

Having just gotten off a long bus ride from Chefchaouen, the man who checked me in from the comfort of a tiled patio table (I never did see a formal reception desk at any of these riads) also asked if I’d like a bite to eat. He came back with a bowl of fresh fruit and the afore mentioned tea, allowing me to relax before showing me around the riad and eventually to my room.

Of all the riads I stayed in during my trip, Riad Layalina by far had the largest guest room.  The full sized room had a spiral metal staircase that lead up to a loft area with an additional bed. Only being one person, I didn’t get a chance to take advantage of the extra space. But if traveling with a family or a couple of friends, this room had plenty of space to spread out.

Just outside of the my room’s door, I found a tiled bistro table and a set of chairs. A perfect spot for another tea, light reading or even a bit of work while overlooking the colorful courtyard.

Situated just a few minutes walk from Fez’s central medina, you can get to most of the city’s sights, shopping and food without needing a taxi. Still, give yourself extra time to get lost when you first venture out from the riad. The alleyways and small streets all look deceivingly similar.

Riad Emberiza Sahari, Marrakesh

By the time I arrived at my third riad – this time in the city of Marrakesh – I was well used to the adventure of wandering thorough narrow alleys and arriving at a nondescript door only to find a lovely retreat inside.

But I was not ready for Riad Emberiza Sahari.

I didn’t just walk into a riad…I walked into the Garden of Eden.

A slightly gauzy texture to the air made it seem dream like. And after wandering through the dusty construction area right outside the doors, I felt like I arrived at an oasis. The kind of place where you say to yourself “Yes! I’m in one of the most exciting, colorful, energetic cities in the world…but I may just stay right here in my little palace all day”.

The central courtyard surrounded a serene pool and fruit trees full of fat oranges and lemons (the tree of good and evil?) provided guests with both shade and food. A very light dusty rose color on the walls and highlights of teal added to the feeling of calm.

The day I arrived the owner of the riad was onsite to meet me. After talking with her for just a few moments, I made a mental note to see if Amazon had a book about her life story.

Originally from Australia and a lawyer by trade, this no-nonsense yet hospitable woman somehow ended up in Morocco, designing and running this beautiful space. I told her I bet she had some interesting stories to tell. She simply and slightly mysteriously said “yes” and left it at that.  Damn, I need to find and read that book!

As with the other riads, the rooms did not have numbers, but rather names. For the next three days I stayed in a room called the “Elizabeth Rose” and as the name suggest, the walls and details of the room were all in a light pink color.

The queen size bed was incredibly comfortable and the bathroom bigger than some European hotel rooms I’ve stayed in. The riad provided handmade bath products placed into the beautiful glass bottles with golden tops you find throughout the marketplaces of Morocco. (Side note: those bottles serve as great souvenirs whether empty or full).

Just outside my room (which didn’t have a lock because, well, no one steals in a place as beautiful as this) I found a little seating area with a view just above the courtyard.

But for the best views, climb up to the roof. There you will find seating areas to have tea or wine and enjoy the sights and sounds of the city. I loved sitting on the rooftop as the sun went down and the mosques began their calls to prayer.  The city felt electric and calm at the same time. The magic of Marrakesh!

While I always ate dinner and lunch outside of the riad, I can highly recommend their breakfast. When I came downstairs the first morning and found fresh squeezed orange juice (I bet I know where they found the oranges) and my favorite breakfast food – almond croissants – I fell in love. The coffee was hot and strong and they even had salt and pepper shakers shaped like my favorite animals – rhinos!

And speaking of animals, before long I caught a glimpse of a slowly moving turtle. Wait… two turtles!  They were absolutely adorable and their slow, tranquil, pace perfectly matched the vibe of the riad.

While I know there are hundreds of riads that I should check out on my next visit to Marrakesh, I will find it very difficult to not just book myself back at the Riad Emberiza Sahari.

Villa Gonatouki, Essaouira

The last Moroccan city I visited was the beach town of Essaouira, about a 3-hour bus ride from Marrakesh.  I had heard mixed reviews of this location. They ranged from “idyllic port city” to “over crowded and dirty tourist trap” so I didn’t know exactly what to expect. In that situation, I find it usually best to go and see for myself so I can draw my own conclusions.

After doing a good amount of research (OK, OK…you know me by now…it was totally last minute research) on places to stay I decided to go with accommodations that were a bit away from the main part of the city if for no other reason that the photos on the website and the customer reviews captured my heart.

You could argue that Villa Gonatouki is not truly a riad, which is fair enough. As the name suggests, it was more of a villa, but there were enough elements about the location that reminded me a riad so I’m going to include it on the list.  Also, its my blog and I can bend the rules a bit if I like!

While most people want to stay close to the beach and the seaside medina, I decided to forgo that convenience. I chose a location a bit further away from the crowds. This made getting to and from the villa a bit challenging. Luckily, once I got there, I barely wanted to leave.

One of the most important words I learned during my stay at Villa Gonatouki was not an Arabic word or a Berber word. Rather it was the French word ‘piste‘.

The owner of the villa, a genial French gentleman, kept referring to the piste when instructing me on how to get to and from the location. I vaguely recognized the word from the world of skiing (having been on skis exactly zero times in my life), but I couldn’t figure out what it had to do with the location of my accommodations in Morocco.

I finally did a Google search and realized that piste referred to the unpaved road leading up to the villa.  A bit bumpy and uncomfortable on a nice day. Or on a day when the heavens open up and buckets full of rain pour down, the piste became a driving adventure for which you must tip your taxi driver handsomely.

So you leave the center of the city by taxi (or a villa employee if they are running an errand in town) and about 20 minutes later you are driving up the piste past the modest homes of the local villagers. Then you come around a bend and the terra cotta villa on the hill comes into view.  If you arrive during the day, you can see the vastness of the property. Or at night, the building glows like a lighthouse guiding you home to a warm dinner.

With two pools, a peaceful internal courtyard, a library, sitting room, numerous rooftop terraces, fireplaces, multiple dining room options, and an on-site hammam with options for traditional and contemporary spa treatments…well, honestly there was little reason to leave. And did I mention the two stray dogs that live on the grounds? Their sweet brown eyes will melt your heart and make you want to share whatever is on your plate.

But this is definitely not a cookie cutter hotel with a typical checklist of amenities. Rather it feels more like your rich uncle has invited you to spend a few days at his country hideaway.  That is if your uncle is a former French businessman who decided to buy some land and build a private villa on a hill overlooking a Moroccan port city.

Coming at a slower time of the year (early November) I was shown a couple of different room options and got to select the one that I liked best. I decided to go with one that had a window right in front of the bed. That way I woke up to beautiful glowing skies each morning.  Even though I never needed to light it, the fireplace made the room feel very cozy.

One of my favorite features of the room was the huge private terrace. It gave me the perfect spot to get a bit of sun, train capoeira or just take in the views of the surrounding hills.

One evening I decided to splurge on a traditional hammam spa treatment and then a massage the next night.  The prices were reasonable and how could I resist the convenience of donning a plush robe then walking through the villa to the onsite spa?   If you read about my experience in a Korean spa, you know how things went. The only difference being that I had the room to myself. It was just me and the woman scrubbing all the dead skin off my body while in a steam-filled room.  It sounds a little like torture, but it was truly invigorating.

My last evening at Villa Gonatouki, I got to experience a Moroccan downpour.  I got caught in a rain storm trying to fit in some last minute shopping in the city. After a lot of pleading, I found a taxi to take me back to the villa. Slightly soaked and arms full of packages, I felt like I’d arrived at home when I came through the door. I dried off, changed my clothes and found a delicious Moroccan dinner waiting for me on a candle lit table.  I fell in love with this place and made a mental promise to make a regular pilgrimage back to Vila Gonatouki.

And as if to seal that promise, I woke up the next morning, my last full day in Morocco, to a gorgeous rainbow just outside my room window. Now I know I have to return.

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