Some cities do not require much of an introduction. Even if you’ve never traveled to Paris or London, you still have an impression of the layout and the vibe of a city.  That is not so much the case with Baku, Azerbaijan.

When I told friends and family of my plans to visit Azerbaijan, I could almost see them scanning the world map in their heads and coming up blank. Yes, they’d heard of it. No, they couldn’t pronounce it and where in the heck is it?  Oh, and WHY am I going there? It turns out there are so many reasons why you should plan a visit to check out all of the country, but for this trip I stayed close to the capital Baku.

So for those of you who have the same questions, or who are thinking about going for the first time, here are my initial impressions of the city of Baku.

Mix of old and new in Baku

Arrivals

Whenever possible, I like to arrive in a city during the daytime. If you fly in on a clear day, you can get a feel of the city through the lay of the land. Skyscrapers or rolling fields? Churches? Mosques? Synagogues?  Or maybe all three. Clogged highways or open roads? Lots of colorful buildings or more muted tones to set the stage?

My flight from Doha to Baku landed around 5:00 PM so there was still plenty of light for me to see the city that sits on the shore of the Caspian Sea and its grand homes, hilly landscape and wooded areas. But still, nothing quite prepares you for being in that new city for the first time. The people’s demeanor, sights, the language that sounds completely foreign to my ears.

View overlooking Baku from Dagustu Park

My first introduction to the city was the driver that my hotel sent to meet me at the airport.  He was quiet and a bit gruff. Not exactly the picture of customer service. When I asked him about an ATM machine to pull out some cash, it was clear that his quietness probably came from a shyness about not knowing English particularly, rather than any particular issue with me.

Enlisting the help of a woman at the foreign exchange desk, I found the ATM machine, got my Azerbaijani Manat and then we were on our way. I followed the driver’s quick pace out to the parking lot, struggling to keep up (do all Azerbaijani’s walk this fast?) then settled myself into the back seat of his car for my first up close view of the city.

Outside of the center, we flew through traffic-free highways, tall apartment complexes and business buildings whizzing past.  But as soon as we neared the center of the old city, traffic slowed and all driving rules went right out the window.

I quickly realized that the the Formula 1 races that took over Baku for the weekend, wrecked havoc on the city.  Sudden road closures blocked regular traffic flows and threw Google Maps into a tizzy. But to be honest, I suspect that things are not terribly different on any other day of the year.  Road lanes are merely suggestions. What appears to be a one way street is actually meant for driving in both directions. Sidewalks are for walking as well as creative parking.  Horns are as important to safe driving as the breaks and steering wheel.

Arrived in Baku just in time for the Formula 1 races to begin

Arriving somewhere within the vicinity of the apartment-style hotel (street closures kept the driver from making a curbside drop off),  I met up with the building manager to make the rest of the way on foot.  Yet again I barely managed to keep up with the landlord who walked even faster than my driver.  We quickly passed by streets lined with shops and small restaurants until we got to a street that I called “gold street” because nearly all of the mom and pop stores sold gold jewelry. This would be my  street, my home, for the next few days.

Surrounded by small shops and just a few minutes walk from one of the main tourist areas, Fountain Square,  I was right in the middle of the action. And as with any typical tourist area, restaurants, vendors and souvenir shops surrounded the square. The perfect place for a visitor to land.  Though on the day I arrived, the city felt oddly quiet.

Night scene near Fountain Square

Even in late April, the weather was quite grey and chilly which may explain why there were not many people about. But given the influx of people that normally attend Formula 1 races, I expected to see many more tourists. As I would learn later, they would arrive in the next day or two as I began to see more and more people wandering around with maps, guide books and the dreaded selfie stick.

Images of spring in Baku in late April

First things first…Food

I don’t know about you, but one of the first things I do when I get to a city is get a bite to eat.  My friend, who met me in Baku, had arrived a few hours before me and in that time met a local 19-year old who offered to show us around the old city.  Though definitely not an official tour guide his English was good (thanks to years living in Nigeria with his father) and he helped us get a lay of the land and provided some insight into life in Baku.

After listening to our new friend describe his favorite Azerbaijani foods, we all realized we were quite hungry.  Time to dig in to my first Azerbaijani meal! A restaurant with an inviting bright blue door and a menu that listed traditional Azerbaijani meals beckoned us and soon we were seated at a table with menus in hand. Our local guide swore that this was the best places in the area.  Full disclosure: he also used to work there.

A restaurant’s welcoming blue door

I began my meal with a lentil soup (which I ended up having at least once a day during the rest of my stay) and tendir, the delicious bread that is directly responsible for my expanding waist line.  When it comes to the table fresh, it resembles a piece of Indian naan, flat and doughy and way too big to fit in the little bread basket it comes in.

Bread and soup were followed by Fisinjan Pilaf – a chicken dish served with rice and a sweet and sour sauce of walnuts and pomegranate. It didn’t look particularly appetizing in the bowl, but that didn’t matter for long as it had disappeared into my belly in a matter of minutes.  This Azerbaijani dish, which I continued to see on menus all over Baku during the rest of my stay, was a delicious mix of savor and slightly sweet and well worth a try. I’ll count my introduction to Azerbaijani cuisine a great success.

We also tried Saj, a sizzling mix of meat and vegetables

Move Over Chicago

Though I have not conducted any scientific studies, after a few days walking around Baku, I am ready to hand over the title of “the Windy City” to Baku.  Even in the lower parts of the city near the coast, you feel a near constant wind that may make you want to avoid spending too much time on your hair or wearing a wispy skirt.

But head upward away from the sea to the Dagustu Park or the Heydar Aliyev Center and you will feel the forces of nature.  During our wander around the grounds of the Heydar Aliyev Center we nearly got blown off course. We had to stop walking, plant our feet and lean into the wind as if we were doing a bad mime impersonation.  If you visit Baku with small children, definitely keep a tight grasp on them! This wind is no joke.

Windy hair, don’t care!

Strap on your Walking Shoes

Even with all the hills and wind, Baku is a very walkable city. Though I never had problems finding a cab or an Uber, if the weather is nice, I encourage you to get out and walk.  Most of the Old City is accessible by foot and though sometimes it feels like you’re walking in circles, you quickly start to see how the different parks, squares and historic buildings lead from one to the next.

Wander along the cobble stone streets in the old city of Baku.

And though we didn’t get as much time to explore the seaside due to parts being blocked off for the Formula 1 races, at most other times of the year, you can walk along the promenade called Baku Boulevard that stretches 3.75 km along the Caspian Sea.

As you wander away from the seaside you will eventually encounter some hills, but keep climbing. Its good for the quads and to walk off all the good food you’ve been eating. Plus the views of the city are worth it, so climb on.

Walk, or take the funicular up to see great views from Dagustu Park

A Mix of Cultures

Located on the border of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, this former Soviet republic with a population that is traditionally (though not necessarily practicing) Muslim, it is no wonder that I found an interesting mix of cultures throughout the city.  From the architecture to the food to the vibe of the city…you’d be forgiven for wondering “where am I exactly”. But still, Baku is also a city all its own.

During my walk around the Old City on my first evening, I quickly picked up on Islamic architectural influences. The mosques, the domed roofs of the hammams (bath houses) and the mashrabiya (covered balconies) jutting out from the second story windows, had me thinking I should try to use some of my Arabic phrases.

Baku’s Blue Mosque

A Mashrabiya juts out from the second story of a home in the Old City section of Baku

Tall, creative, modern sky scrapers like Flame Towers and Azersu Tower remind me of small parts of the Dubai skyline. Wide open squares with stone monuments were reminiscent of Russian influence.

View of the iconic 3 Flame Towers

A Soviet looking park and memorial in Baku

Then from the food to the souvenirs to the style of dress, there was a distinctly Turkish feel. Hookah pipes lined the outdoor cafe walls. Dishes of rice, chicken and meats reminded me of some meals I had in Istanbul.

Colorful head coverings for sale

Hookah pipes waiting for customers along a restaurant wall.

Still, no city is an exact mirror of any other, and Baku definitely had a vibe unlike anywhere else. Perhaps being surrounded by a totally unfamiliar language made the city feel totally unique? Or maybe the locals residents who were welcoming but also very curious about me and my dark skin (more on that in a future post).  Or the affects of oil money wealth mixed with 12th century ruins that made the Baku feel like nowhere else?

After that first evening in Baku, I couldn’t really be sure, but after a good night’s sleep, I knew I’d be ready to explore and discover more.

Enjoyed this Post? Use the image below to Pin it on Pinterest!