You’ll notice that I don’t give addresses to the locations below but rather general directions. I’ve never had any success giving an actual address when trying to get somewhere. Instead places are always described by the neighorhood and what is nearby. If you want an exact address, a quick google search will help. But trust me, a close landmark is a lot more helpful than a street number.
1. Dar (Neighborhood: Hamra)
What’s Good?: Peaceful, laid back setting with indoor and outdoor seating. The food is tasty, decently priced (e.g. not cheap but you could do worse in Beirut) and the wait staff is friendly and always willing to answer questions about the menu or the neighborhood. The building also houses a small bookstore with English and French books and a photography studio upstairs.
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| I could sit on this shady patio for hours |
Dar has a good menu of salads, sandwiches, main plates and desserts. I love their Turkey sandwich with pear jam. Also check out breakfast with Lebanese specialities as well as standard omelets and waffles.
Where is it?: Dar is located a few blocks off of Hamra Street. Look for the Lebanon Tourism office and across the street is a side street perpendicular to Hamra Street. Walk down this street and you’ll find Dar on the left, just past a gas station.
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| Waiting for my food to come… |
If I could change one thing…: recently they changed their internet service to expire after an hour or two. Not a big deal because they will give you new codes whenever you ask, but it was a lot easier when the service was constant.
2. Tawlet (Neighborhood: Mar Mikhael)
What’s Good?: The food here steals the show. Healthy, organic, flavorful with great variety from Lebanese chefs brought in from around the country. The food is served buffet style so come hungry and load up (as I always do). And just when you utter the words “I couldn’t eat another bite, you see the dessert buffet and decide you’ll eat your words (and a piece of knefe).
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| Round 1 of healthy, delicious food from the Tawlet buffet. |
You can often find the owner, Kamal, at the restaurant and he’s always smiling and welcoming to the guests. I love to local artwork on the wall and much of it you can find in the small store to take home with you.
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| Fun artwork from local artists on the walls at Tawlet |
Where is it?: In the Mar Mikhael neighborhood. Its down a sidestreet that’s located across the street from the large Bible Book Shop and a bit to the left (if the Bible Bookshop is behind you). There’s a flower shop on the corner to use as a landmark. If you’re walking down the street thinking there is no way there’s an trendy restaurant at the end, you’re on the right street.
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| Plates of healthy deliciousness at Tawlet |
If I could change one thing…: The Buffet lunch can be pretty pricey if you’re on a budget. But trust me…save up and go. Its worth it!
3. Caribou Coffee (Neighborhood: Sassine Square)
What’s Good?: While not unique to Lebanon (yes, you can find them all over the US Midwest) this is a good standard place to go when you need to get some work done but don’t want to be stuck in the house. There are a number of big name coffee shops around the Sassine Square area, but Starbucks charges for their internet and if you sit outside you will be harassed by panhandlers. Costa Coffee has free internet but the service was not working at all when I was there. Caribou has consistent service and as long as you refresh your coffee every 2 hours you can keep working away. The inside area is smoke free (yay!) but there’s also a large patio outside. In the evening the place is buzzing and full with students studying (or socializing).
Where is it?: While not directly on Sassine Square, its just a few blocks away. If the ABC Mall is at your back and Starbucks on your left, walk down the main street on the right and it will be on the left hand side of the street less than a 5 minute walk away from where you started.
If I could change one thing…: I can’t really think of anything. Cafes like this are just what you expect – if you’re looking for something unique and quaint, you’re in the wrong place. But for decent coffee, some nibbles and a good place to put your head down and work, this is a great spot.
4. Alcazar (Neighborhood: Gemmayze)<
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What’s Good?: Nice roof top location with big fans whirling to keep you cool in the summer months. Their happy hour prices are affordable (2 for 1 drinks) and their Spicy Margarita is the best ‘rita I’ve had since leaving California. Comfortable lounge seating and during happy hour it is never too crowded. Great place to start off the evening and catch up with friends. There is also a pub and a restaurant on the lower floors, but I’ve always just headed straight for the roof.
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| Best margarita I’ve found on my trip so far |
Where is It?: Just off of the main street in Gemmayze on the Saint Nicholas Stairs.
If I could change one thing…: Happy Hour prices all night (a girl can dream).
