Tokyo to Osaka to Kyoto

Posted in Japan| Kyoto| Osaka| Tokyo
Where to begin? I feel like so many days have past and so much has happened since my last post.  I keep checking the date to make sure I haven’t missed a blog update (Mondays and Thursdays, ya’ll).  But nope – I’m still on schedule. Over the next 5 months, I do not plan to make every post a “here’s what I did over the last 4 days” recap. But for today, please just bear with me.

After my full day romp around Tokyo last Thursday with my friend Midori, I packed up my things and headed over to stay with the family who hosted me when I was in Tokyo 18 years ago.  I have to say it was the most bizarre mix of feelings. Happy to see my host family again, amazed by how much time had passed since I was a college student just starting out my travel, nostalgic about the place I used to live and the life I used to have, relieved to see that my host father, who had been quite ill, was actually doing OK. All that mixed with lingering jetlag and the energy of an adorable 6 year old (my host sisters daughter) … I found myself tearing up the moment I stepped back into the house where I stayed for 2 1/2 months. By the time I saw my host father, I was full-on crying. I can be such a sap sometimes.

I had a full day with my host family. We started the morning going to the first day of school ceremony for my friend’s daughter (the Japanese school year begins in April). It was an odd mix of a corporate board meeting and a kids party.  Lots of school officials in business suits making speeches that sounded like quarterly profit reports while kids sat attentively in their brand new outfits with backpacks that had clearly never seen a text book or an lunch sack.  


My Host Sister, Hiroko and her daughter, Hanon at her 1st day of school ceremony.


After the ceremony, a celebratory lunch at what was like a US Country Club then a walk around the gardens at the restaurant.

With my host family and a school friend in the Happo-En gardens
Wedding Photos at the Happo-En garden (yep –  that’s a pink wedding dress)
After lunch, a trip to see a night viewing of the Cherry Blossoms in Ueno Park and then a late dinner of monjayaki.

@ Ueno Park to see the cherry blossoms at night
Serious picnic-ing to view the Cherry Blossoms in Ueno Park

A few days before I was thrilled because I was able to have a short conversation with someone in Japanese.  Nothing earth shattering, but after not using Japanese for years I was pretty happy I could string a few words together and make someone understand me.  That thrill quickly dissipated after spending some time with my host parents. My host sister speaks English, but I was totally unable to communicate with my host parents. There were so many things I wanted to say to them to let them know how much they meant to me and how my first time in Japan had changed my life in so many ways. But at best I could get a sentence out about the weather and that was it.  If my host sister wasn’t there to translate, everything I wanted to say came out in a bizarre mix of English, Portuguese and the wrong Japanese word. So frustrating!  But they are both so kind and welcoming, they still made me feel at home even though there were many moments of silence.

Otosan and Okasan

So Saturday morning I was off to the train station to catch a bullet train down to Osaka for two days.  I ended up staying at a really cool hotel after my couchsurfing attempt was thwarted.  If you’re ever in Osaka, check out the Cross Hotel. I didn’t get to see much of the city in such a short time, but from what I did see, I know I want to go back. It had a kind of funky, progressive vibe that I’d like to explore more one day.  Its also the home of my very favorite Japanese food: Okanomiyaki! It is basically a savory pancake filled with all sorts of ingredients (meats, seafood, veggies, soba noodles) that is cooked right at your table.

My favorite Japanese food: Okanomiyaki

While in Osaka, I got to jump into a Capoeira Workshop with Grupo Capoeira Forca da Arte under
ContraMestre Espeto. It was the weekend of the group’s batizado so I also got to hang out with the group for a few celebratory beers after the workshop.

With Contra Mestre Espeto at Las Incas restaurant

I also was able to reunite with friends from Capoeira Brasil – LA who had moved back to Japan a few years ago.  Yae and Docinho treated me to a fantastic day at Universal Studio Park in Osaka.  It was a beautiful day and we had a great time just running around the park, checking our the rides and overall just being silly. It was so good to see them again. Docinho has adapted so well to life in Japan and I have to say I’m a little jealous of how good her Japanese is after only two years. Kids!!  They pick stuff up so quickly.

Maya (aka Docinho) at Universal Studios Park

With Yae and Docinho

Save us Spidey!!

Before heading out to Kyoto, where I am now, I decided to take a leisurely afternoon stroll around the Osaka Castle. Being it was a nice sunny day, I skipped touring the inside of the castle and instead just wandered around looking at the cherry blossoms and souvenir shops. I even grabbed a green tea ice cream cone and just watched people pass by.

Osaka Castle

Water pump for cleansing at the entry to the castle shrine

Bicycle Parking in the castle gardens

The park around the castle had lots of flat open areas and I was just dying for a capoeirista or two to play with…I may have to start walking around with a berimbau to see who I can attract!

So I’ve traded in funky big city (Osaka) for quaint oldworld Japan (Kyoto). I’ve also traded in a designer hotel room for a dorm bed in a hostel. Flexibility is the name of the game when your’e traveling for this long. More to come in a few days.

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4 comments… add one
  • Lauren April 10, 2012, 2:10 am

    Sounds lovely. I head to Osaka & Kyoto this summer for ten days. This post is getting me excited!

    • Nailah April 11, 2012, 11:25 am

      That’s fantastic! I think you will love it here!

  • PaulaE June 18, 2012, 9:49 pm

    I going to visit my host famy in japan after two years of being with them for one year. But i dont know what would i say or what should i act like…
    When the silent moments come what shoul i do.

    What did you do after 18 years?

    • Nailah June 18, 2012, 11:03 pm

      HI Paula! Thanks for stopping by the blog. Oh there will definitely be some awkward silent moments, especially if there is a language barrier as there was for me. Luckily my host sister spoke fluent English so that helped, but when she was not around, my host parents and I ran out of things to say fairly quickly. Bring pictures from your time with them and from your current life- I found that helped to fill in some of the gaps. But also, don’t worry too much about the silence. The benefit of seeing your family again will outweigh a few quiet moments.

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