Beirut: The One Thing I Cannot Overlook

Posted in Beirut| Lebanon
It is no secret to anyone who reads this blog that I am a big fan of Beirut. I cannot put my finger on what it is exactly but something about this city is familiar enough to make me feel at ease, but just foreign enough to make me feel alive and aware and like each day has a bit of adventure waiting for me.

Sure there are the inconveniences: the electricity cuts, the insane driving, the humidity which seems to be creeping higher everyday, but these are things I can live with. There is also the constant undertone of unease from a city which has spent many recent years under war conditions.  And the tense feelings of a country that has serious fighting going on just across the border.  These things keep daily life from being completely easy and carefree for the average Beruti, but it does not stop them from trying to get the most out of life.    Through art, through music, through fast cars or an easy late night game of backgammon.

But there is one thing about this city that has bothered me from day one and I’ve been hesitating to write about it. Mostly because I know that there is little I can do to change the way things are. It is the situation with the foreign workers here in Beirut. The Ethiopian and Filippino maids and nannies, the Indian, Bangladeshi and Sri Lankan garbage collectors, the (what I’m guessing is) Nigerian, Kenyan and Sudanese kitchen workers.  My problem is not so much that they are doing these jobs, but that I have never seen them doing any other type of work.

I cannot fault someone for leaving their homeland to find work in a new country either to send money to their families back home or to find a better standard of living.  I’m sure that being a caretaker for an elderly woman in the Achrafieh neighborhood of Beirut affords a better living than in a poor section of Addis Ababa. 

And it is not like we don’t have plenty of examples of this in the US. In my city of Los Angeles, many men and women come from Mexico and Central America to make a living as domestic workers or day laborers. The difference is that in LA I can also walk into a retail store, a bar or a corporate office and see someone from El Salvador, Mexico or Guatemala employed there too.

I cannot say the same about Beirut.  For example, if you see an African man working in a restaurant, he will either be washing dishes, or taking out the garbage.  You will not see him showing guests to their seat or taking their dinner order.  For years workers have been coming from Ethiopia, the Philippines and India yet no one has been able to progress to the position of a waiter, let alone a corporate office worker?  I hear many of the domestic workers speaking Arabic, English and French to their employers so I don’t believe its a language barrier that keeps them from rising to customer facing jobs.

Where I see most people of color in Beirut

I have also heard stories of abusive situations between employer and their employees, but I have not had any experience with this first hand, so I can’t really comment. But even the fact that the house keeper who works for a neighboring family has to sleep in a tiny shed on the terrace makes me feel uncomfortable. I wonder, if you don’t have enough space to have a live-in maid live in your home, do you really need live-in maid? 

Of course seeing treatment like this also makes me wonder how people see me. Although my skin is as dark as many of the Ethiopian women, does my speaking fluent English and having an American passport make me different? Personally, I have not faced any direct racism here, in fact most people have been nothing but hospitable to me which is why I keep wanting to extend my stay.  But I also realize that because of the language barrier, I have no idea what may be said behind my back, or to my face, for that matter.

I have been in some of the nicest hotels, clubs, and restaurants and have never been refused service, but I wonder what would happen if I showed up wearing a maid’s uniform. Or if I showed up with a few friends from Ethiopia or Nigeria instead of my friends from Lebanon and America.  Would I be treated the same way?  Does the fact that I’m allowed to spend my hard earned money in the night clubs, restaurants and high end shops while domestic workers are turned away or discouraged from even trying point to racism or classism? Or both?

As I said at the beginning, I sadly do not have any answer or fix for this situation. I know that when I regretfully leave here in less than two weeks, the situation will not have changed one bit. Hopefully people will remember me as the friendly American travel writer who truly enjoyed learning about and exploring this beautiful country. But what about the friendly Nigerian or Indian man or woman who was just as interested in this country? Will they every have a chance to know Beirut in the same way?


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17 comments… add one
  • Lily June 22, 2012, 6:21 am

    Very interesting piece Nailah. As an Ethiopian myself I would definitely have an issue visiting a country that condones Ethiopian maids being mistreated – one even recently committed suicide, did you read about it? It was all over the news because a bystander caught the abuse on tape. In any case, I doubt just showing up as an Ethiopian means mistreatment. If I showed up they’d know I wasn’t a maid. But that doesn’t make it ok at all.

    There are many parties to blame, starting with the host governments, and then with the workers who are often warned not to go to the Middle East but are too desperate to stay home. It’s a sad situation as you said. But I’m glad you brought it to light on your blog.

    • Nailah June 22, 2012, 10:56 am

      Lily, Thank you so much for reading and sharing your perspective. It really adds a lot. I had briefly heard about the horrible situation with the suicide, but I’ve not actually read any of the reports. I will go back and do so now. Thank you for raising that.

  • Anonymous June 22, 2012, 10:48 pm

    I am originally from East Africa but i happen to have American citizenship. I travel frequently and one thing i can tell you is that Americans really do get respect in other countries. The color of your skin can be ignored in a lot of situations once you are identified as an American just because America is associated with wealth and privilege. During my travels i have seen people’s attitude change toward me depending on whether i identify myself as an American or African. It has become easier for me to say am American even though i would also like to acknowledge my country of birth. It seems like i get more respect as an American.

    The other thing is not many people in other countries are used to seeing a black person travel for fun/leisure so when they come across one, they automatically assume that you must have a lot of money and they may end up treating you different than say an immigrant who clearly is seeking a better life.

    This article actually reminded me of my trip to Israel, the trip was lovely but the race issue left a bitter taste that i could not ignore. The good thing is i remember the best parts of the trip more than the negative parts…………….Okay, i feel like am now rambling but i tend to get passionate about such topics.

    Nice blog by the way! i have been a lurker for a while now.

    • Nailah June 23, 2012, 8:57 am

      Hi and thank you so much for sharing your thoughts. Yeah – that American passport can be kind of “magical” sometimes. It can change people’s perspectives of you pretty quickly. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve told people I’m from America and the response is Oooohh…America! as if it is some dreamy place. Hahaha. But I can totally understand about not wanting to ignore your country of birth.

      I’m meeting more and more Black travelers which is fantastic, but you’re right, I think we’re still in the minority. Even for those with the financial means, world travel may not be what they’d consider spending their money on.

      I have never been to Israel – I would like to go just because I’d like to travel everywhere, but I have heard about racial issues there as well. Glad you had enough positive experiences to counterbalance.

      BTW – I fully support rambling…notice the subtitle of the blog “Travel Ramblings and Rambling Travels”. 🙂 Hope you come by and share your thoughts again!

  • Try Anything Once Terri June 24, 2012, 8:43 pm

    Hey, Nailah. It’s been very interesting reading this as well as following your time in Beirut. I have heard that many of the experiences of Black people in mirror more Anonymous’ experience (especially in Israel) than yours. While I haven’t traveled at all really in the Middle East, a few experiences transiting through the UAE were interesting at best. At the same time, I can attest to be treated better or people even being surprised when I open my mouth and out comes an American accent or an American passport gets whipped out. It’s always an “interesting” experience being a Black traveler, but I think it’s important to make sure that these experiences are written about. Thanks for doing that. 🙂

    • Nailah July 1, 2012, 11:53 am

      Terri, Thank you for sharing your thoughts…I love hearing from people about their experiences. My experiences as a Black woman solo traveller have been far more positive than negative, and I’m glad to run into more and more travelers that look like me and love being on the road.

  • Tia June 28, 2012, 2:30 pm

    Hi Nailah!
    I am so glad that Oneika-the-Traveler directed me toward your blog! I contacted her because I had concerns about the very issues you pointed out in this post. I’m going to Lebanon next week and when I found out about the situation of minorities in Beirut, I almost canceled my trip. My friends, who are Lebanese and live there, tell me that I shouldn’t worry about it, that it’s all about who you know and what you look like (i.e. if you look like you have money, doesn’t matter what the color of your skin is!). Do you have any other advice/information that you think I should know before I get there! I liked your post on taking a taxi in Beirut! 🙂

    • Nailah July 1, 2012, 11:34 am

      Hi Tia! Thank you for stopping by (I’ll have to thank Oneika for the recommendation). That’s too bad that you are coming after I leave – it would have been nice to meet you and show you around. How long will you be here and what will you be doing while you’re here?
      There are definitely issues here with equality, but I have to say friendly, helpful people are mostly the norm here. Just walking around my neighborhood today I got Bonjours, Marhabas and Hellos from nearly everyone I passed.
      It sounds like you have some local friends here in Beirut so I doubt you’ll need any help, but if you do, please let me know and I’ll do the best I can to help out.
      Things can change quickly here in Lebanon, but for the most part things seem quite safe right now. I traveled to Baalbek (which you should check out while you’re here) and to the south of Lebanon without any problems at all. As with any big city, when in Beirut, be street smart and aware, but also know that its a friendly safe city for the most part. If you’re in town on a Sunday evening, consider signing up for a Walk Beirut tour. Its really a good way to see the city and learn quite a bit about the city and the guide is top notch (I wrote a post on this tour as well).
      Please do let me know if you have any other questions. I’m happy to help out. Very glad to hear that you decided not to cancel your trip and I hope you enjoy your time here. Please let me know what you think once you’ve had time to check out the city.

  • Tia July 3, 2012, 3:29 pm

    Thanks Nailah! I’m leaving on Thursday to arrive on Friday afternoon. I don’t have any firm plans, I figured I will take it on a day-to-day basis. I would like to visit Byblos and Jounieh; I heard great things about Baalbek, but as per my(Canadian) government advisory, it is an area to avoid completely while in Lebanon, same goes for the South. But I guess I will see when I get there!I am most definitely interested in the walking tour.
    Indeed, it would have been nice to meet, I would have liked to know more about life in Beirut from the perspective of an expat! I will keep you posted…enjoy your future trips!

    • Nailah July 8, 2012, 10:25 am

      Hi Tia – I am guessing you’ve made it to Beirut already. Would love to hear what you think so far. Hope you enjoy your trip. Def. check out Byblos and Jounieh and I have to say I felt totally safe going to both Baalbek and southern Lebanon, but of course only do what you feel comfortable with. Have a blast!

  • Tia July 23, 2012, 8:41 pm

    Hi Nailah! I am freshly returned from Lebanon, and I must say that I had a great time! I did Jounieh and Byblos and went to the South (near Sour, a B&B/turtle reserve called Orange House, do you know it? It was totally worth the drama that was created because I, the foreigner, did not have proper documentations allowing me to be in this part of the country…but I know people who know people…that’s how it works in Leb, no?!)I love city life, but Beirut is something else!! The constant traffic, noise and air pollution, but then right in the middle of all this chaos, I could find a “peaceful” corner, like the DT area near the Beirut Souks. I much preferred the time I spent in my friends’ villages. The view from the mountains left me speechless!At night, I enjoyed being in Hamra, specifically, that alley with all kinds of bars (my favorite being February 30). Gemmayzeh was nice too!
    As for the discrimination/racism, I must that I didn’t feel it personally. My friends and their family were constantly making sure I was comfortable! And the others that I would encounter were just fine…I didn’t get the chance to wander around on my own, as there was always someone wanting to take me somewhere! I wondered whether I would have been treated differently if I was not accompanied by a Lebanese…as well, I was somewhat uncomfortable when there was a (African)maid in houses I would be invited to, or when I was at the beach enjoying the pool and I could see the “nanny” sitting alone in the blazing sun, or following from afar the family she works for. I wondered “Is she well treated? What is she thinking about? What crossed her mind when she saw me?” Overall, though I had a great time, I don’t know if I will go back; the only reason I can see myself going back is if my friend decides to have her wedding in Lebanon, which could be sooner than I think! I always wanted to attend a Lebanese wedding! 🙂

  • Nailah July 31, 2012, 9:56 am

    Hi Tia,
    So glad to hear back from you after your Lebanon adventure. Sounds like you enjoyed it overall. Lebanon is a very complex country so its hard to like everything about the place, but in my experiences the good outweighs the bad. Sounds like you had some wonderful hosts, which is common in Lebanon. They really know how to take care of their guests. The hospitality there can be amazing.

    would love to know about your trip to the Turtle Reserve – I may have to add that to my next Lebanon trip. I love turtles and have always wanted to go to a reserve.

  • shirley December 27, 2012, 10:19 pm

    hi…I’m going Jan 12 to the 20th I am hoping the red cross will let me volunteer to do something anything to help the Syrian ppl living in there camps in beiruit..I am black American 49…..my only reason to go there for now is to help then I can enjoy the fruits of beiruit after….so u got some tips on volunteering if red cross turns me down…thanks

    • Nailah December 28, 2012, 5:19 am

      Hi Shirley! Thank you so much for reading and commenting. I did a little volunteer work when I was in Lebanon, but that was through my Capoeira (martial arts) group. I have a few friends I can reach out to, though so will do a little research for you to see what I can find. Are there certain areas you want to help in? Like working with kids or people with medical needs? Or are you just willing to roll up your sleeves and help with whatever needs to get done? Would you be willing to travel to cities outside of Beirut to help?

    • Nailah December 30, 2012, 9:33 pm

      Hi Shirley – I received some information on volunteer opportunities from a friend who is currently in lebanon. Please send me an email at nailah[at]theressomuchtosee.com and I’ll forward the info to you.

  • shirley January 2, 2013, 11:52 am

    happy new year…thank you…I don’t think to drive …so I would have to figure out how to get to that site to help…email me at amerika68@Hotmail.com…I don’t know why but I can’t seem to email u w ur add…thanks…red cross never return my call…also I don’t want to pay to volunteer…thanks

    • Nailah January 2, 2013, 5:31 pm

      Happy New Year to you too. i just sent you an email with some information on possible volunteer opportunities in Beirut. Good luck!!

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